Window Tinting

Ceramic window tint is a film made with nano-ceramic particles instead of dye or metal. It blocks a large share of the sun's heat and UV rays and cuts glare, and because it contains no metal it does not interfere with GPS, cell phone, radio or Bluetooth signals. It also holds its color and clarity longer than traditional dyed film.

Price depends on the film you choose, the size of the vehicle and how many windows are being done. Ceramic film costs more than basic dyed film, and larger vehicles take more material and time. Send us your vehicle details through the quote form and we will price it after confirming what you want.

A quality film can last many years. Ceramic films tend to last longest because they resist fading, bubbling and turning purple. Care and quality of installation matter, and a reputable film comes with a manufacturer warranty.

Yes, within the limits of the law. Florida sets rules on how dark the film can be, which differ for the front side windows, rear side windows and rear window and can depend on the type of vehicle. There are also limits on how reflective the film can be, and the windshield can only be tinted in a strip near the top. We will go over the legal limits for your specific vehicle before we install anything. Check the current state rules if you want to confirm them yourself.

Yes. A professional can remove old film with heat and steam without damaging the glass or the rear defroster lines. Removing it yourself can leave behind adhesive residue and scratches, so it is better done by a shop.

The lower the VLT percentage, the darker the film and the more privacy it gives. Balance the look you want with the legal limit for each window and how comfortable you are driving at night. Many people choose a darker shade on the back windows for privacy and a lighter one up front for visibility. We can show you samples against the glass so you can see the difference.

Yes. Quality ceramic films block close to all UV rays. That protects your skin and keeps your seats, dashboard and trim from fading and cracking.

Do not roll your windows down for a couple of days after installation so the film can fully cure. After that, clean with a soft microfiber cloth and an ammonia-free glass cleaner. Avoid abrasive pads and harsh chemicals. Small hazy spots or water pockets right after install are normal and clear up as the film cures.

You can buy a kit, but tint takes skill and a very clean environment. Dust, creases, bubbles and uneven edges are common with DIY work, and a mistake means starting over. A professional install gives a cleaner finish and a better-lasting result.

Only a strip across the top of the windshield, above the manufacturer's AS-1 line, and it generally has to be non-reflective. Tinting below that line is not permitted. Some shops also offer clear, high-performance heat-rejecting film for the full windshield where the law allows. Ask us what is legal for your vehicle.

Ceramic tint does not, because it has no metal in it. Older metallic films can interfere with signals, which is one reason ceramic is the better choice for modern vehicles.

We install high-performance ceramic window films from leading manufacturers, backed by a manufacturer warranty. If you would like a specific brand or performance level, ask us when you request a quote and we will go through the options for your vehicle and budget.

Both, depending on the window. A plotter gives precise patterns without a blade touching the glass. Rear windows with strong compound curves often come out better with a skilled installer heat-shaping the film so it lies flat without creases. We use whichever method gives the cleanest result on your vehicle.

TSER (total solar energy rejected) measures the share of the sun's total energy the film blocks, including visible light, infrared and UV. It is the most useful single number for comparing films. IR rejection measures only the infrared portion, which is where much of the felt heat comes from, but the figures are measured in different ways by different brands, so treat them as a secondary data point.

Not exactly. Heat rejection in real-world comfort is better described by TSER, or by SHGC (solar heat gain coefficient). Two films can claim similar IR numbers and still feel different on a hot day. When you compare films, look at both the shade and the TSER or SHGC data.

Usually, yes. They go on different surfaces, so they do not conflict. We install PPF first, since it goes on the exterior paint, and then tint the glass. The main factors are scheduling and PPF cure time, but it is a common combination, particularly for new cars getting a full protection package.